So I've been following TCB Jeans for about two years now. I don't actually remember exactly where I stumbled across them. I think it probably was on an all-night eBay bender I occasionally allow myself to have from time to time. I began the normal stalking; I found them online and began following the normal avenues of pursuit.
I finally found a used pair of the 60's jeans TCB offers. It's the recreation of the Levi's 1966 501 fit that has become sought after due to the legacy of fit. Some background: the 1966 Levi’s 501 is one of the most significant milestones in the brand's history to date. It represents the moment when Levi’s transitioned from rugged workwear post-WWII into a truly modern jean—both in fit and construction. The 1966 501 fit embodied the cultural change of the time. It refined the workwear cut into a more polished fit that would become what we know today as an "everyday jean." The 1966 501 is considered the last “vintage” 501 fit before mass industrial modernization began in the 1970s. (I love geeking out about this sh*t.)
The first thing I noticed was, of course, the denim itself. Soft, plush with neps, midweight feel, texture from the fabric you can experience rather than simply wearing—some very true hallmarks of quality, small-batch Japanese denim manufacturers. Everything looked as it should, right down to the hand-stamped paper patch. After putting them on, I WAS A DEVOTEE!!! I spent so much time on resale sites (too much time, now that I think about it) and had so much fun tracking down all the different fits. I bought, sold, even traded with a guy—finding the right sizes, exploring the construction of each fit, and learning more about the history of the brand.
On a complete whim, and after a wonderful conversation with Octavio from Old Pueblo Denim (hello, Tucson, AZ) about what we both enjoyed about certain brands, I said, “Screw it, what's it going to hurt to say howdy?” That was in August, I think, and to be honest, I forgot about the email. I'd say six to eight months went by maybe, then Ryo reached out and said hello. To say that I was very surprised is selling it short. he apologized for the late response by saying that because they are so small and everyone wears so many different hats it can take a sec to begin conversations. Over the next several months, we were able to connect over brand values, love for denim, culture, and the simple joys of connecting to another human being. Our correspondence felt honest, sincere, and quite enjoyable. I look forward to his next visit state side.
I was giddy—I repeat, giddy—with excitement when the box showed up. Unfolding each pair and inspecting the craftsmanship, feeling the crispness of the denim, the almost fine fuzz from the cotton, the slight off-pink selvedge line—it was amazing. The fit felt like "the way it used to be" or "the good ol’ days," as they tend to say when remembering a simpler time and place. The jeans your father or his father ran around in after picking up a fresh pair. The sentiment toward the effort that went into the design, the intention, the push toward perfection—it was there, and I could feel it in my hands.
I encourage you, dear reader, to look into the history and people that make TCB stand out in the world of denim. This is an outstanding brand with dedication to celebrating the mindset of living with a good pair of jeans. To quote the owner, TCB strives for "Not only making jeans but we make good life with a good pair of jeans."
There is so much story left to tell with TCB Jeans, and I'm happy to have my front-row seat.
—ht
https://www.japanalogue.com/in-deep-with-tcb-jeans-hajime-inoue/